The pilgrims tale (2014) Day 4, Friday 12th September

I woke up this morning to rain beating a steady patter on the outside of the tent, one of the worst sounds to hear from the inside of a tent if you know that that day you are going to have to pack away the soaking wet nylon. I moped about for a bit, by which time the rain stopped, and so dried the outside as best I could before packing. It was clear from the map that I wouldn't see much in the way of habitation today, so I made a quick get away.

I didn't realise just how bad this day was going to get though. The trail immediately lead me into thickly forested areas that were so dense as to make you feel claustrophobic. This was not the "prepared" footpath I had been lead to believe St Olav's Way was and you had to really have your wits about you to save stumbling on hidden roots or slipping on wet stones. It is also not a route to take ageing relatives along for a Sunday walk. It actually became very oppressive to walk along the path. I had by now taken to listening to my iPod to break the monotony, which was a welcome relief. I started to question the whole idea of undertaking this venture in the first place. It had been intended to be walked in the summer, but circumstances meant I had the opportunity to do it now. When I say "now", the idea was to start it a couple of weeks ago, but personal circumstances made that impossible. Then, all of a sudden, I was committed to doing it. I must again say thank you to the guys at Cotswold for helping out with kit and advice, that has all gone splendidly. What does feel lacking now is my ability! I have NEVER even attempted to do anything like this. The limit of one of my walks is a day walk in Snowdonia! What's worse is that I am doing it alone, so no-one to share the burden of weight with, and have set myself a pace which I don't think is sustainable. Someone said to me, "You're not in a race", but I am really. A race to cross Dovrefjell before bad weather sets in, and a race to get back home to those I love. The prospect of being away from my children for so long is quite daunting. Last, but not least, is the state of my body. My hip is really starting to worry me, and every day I am not so much counting kilometres as minutes to the next medication. My feet are constantly sore and swollen and I am starting to develop blisters. Without going into too much detail, I am also chaffing in some very painful places. I am becoming resigned to not reaching Trondheim, but will take every day a day at a time and see where it takes me.

As for the woods, well, they just carried on and on and on! It didn't help when I inevitably lost my footing and went flying. What did I land on? The only boulder in the immediate vicinity. Which part of my body took the full force? Yep, you guessed it, my right hip. I did take some photos though. These are of a cabin, "hytte", that was made available to pilgrims for free;

Not bad for free! And this is a photo of the forest trail when it widened out!!

It wasn't until late afternoon that I eventually came down out of the woods to catch my first sight of the marvellous Lake Mjøsa.

Again, I had already decided where I would stay for the night, a pilgrim shelter at Epsa, but could not for the life of me find it. Plan B was another business offering accomodation for pilgrims, at a price, but by now, I didn't care. I just wanted to stop and get my boots and rucksack off. I rang the number I had for the place, only to be told they weren't open for business! Aaaargh!! So I had to walk another 6kms to get to a campsite at Tangen, Tangenodden camping. The thought of putting up the tent and being confined to that small space for the evening again just didn't appeal, so I decided instead to rent one of the small hytte. Good choice. I soaked my feet in the cold waters of Mjøsa and allowed them to cool down.

I had a 12 minute long shower, washed my clothes and did what I could for my ailments. A tic check proved negative, thankfully. My left little toe has now disappeared within a blister, which literally exploded when I grabbed the toe to examine it.

But all is not completely bad. I bought some pasta and sauce to make a big, and much needed, meal with a beer to wash it down. I am sprawled out in a cabin to sleep four and I am looking forward to a sound nights sleep. I ate my dinner on the porch of the cabin, looking out over Mjøsa.

It's really not difficult to work out why Norwegians don't go on caravan holidays to the UK.

I'm going to call it a night for now and see what the morning brings.

The pilgrims tale (2014) day 3, Thursday 11th September

Well, well........ 11hours sleep. I definitely must have needed it. I awoke at 8am and dozed until 9 before getting up and breaking camp. I felt like a new person. Admittedly, the hip was still bad, but I had clearly been exhausted during yesterday's trek. So, once everything was packed, off I set again. It was rather misty and damp this morning, but amazingly it did not dampen my enthusiasm, which was strange but good! I had decided to "knock it on the head" today after eight hours, no matter how far I had got. As 10 was a late start I decided to make up some mileage while I felt good. I quickly reached the church I had been aiming for the night before, only to be mocked by a warning sign for moose on the road! Will I ever see one?

I took the opportunity to fill all my water carriers from the church hose before moving on. Still going well, I reached the ancient stone bridge at Risebru, now replaced by a more modern, motor vehicle friendly bridge. 

A sign beside the bridge informed me that I was 5 mile from Christiania. Now, this could be confusing. A Norwegian mile, pronounced meeIa, is a distance of 10 kms. Christiania is the old name for Oslo. So what the old sign was actually saying was that it was 50kms to Oslo.

I then travelled through Norway's equivalent of suburbia, with estates of pretty wooden houses placed apparently at random and all with immaculately well kept gardens. I have always loved the way that Norwegians take such great care and pride in the exterior of their houses. It is probably because much of the year they are covered in a blanket of snow so they want to make the most of it in the Summer. For that reason too, Summer is a much worshipped time of year. 

A bit further on and I came across the welcome sight of a petrol station. I there filled up on a brunch of pølser, a Norwegian hotdog, and coffee which went down really well and definitely re-fuelled the engine.

At Eidsvoll Verk, I stopped to admire the bridge over the river in the middle of town and got a couple of Norwegian ladies to take a photo of me. They asked about my journey and were surprised I had travelled on foot from Oslo. Even more so to find I was continuing to Trondheim. So much so, that when they asked where I was from and I replied, "The UK", they enquired as to whether I had swum from there!

By now the sun was high in the sky and it was a pleasure to walk. The painkillers were doing their job and I was still making good speed. The path had dropped down beside a river and it really was an idyllic way to spend an afternoon. I was even able to forget about my hip for a bit.

The going had all been pretty good, although there was still a little of the single track footpaths. That is a bit of a mis-nomer though because I really think they should be called "single foot" paths because they honestly were more suited for a one legged man to travel along. When a footbridge appearing nearly brand new appeared out of the foliage, it really was quite astounding. This one looked as if it had only been put in place yesterday, yet to reach it required hacking your way through all sorts of plant life!

I had in mind a pilgrim shelter that I wished to stay in tonight, so had made that my goal. When I eventually crossed the bridge to pass through Eidsvoll, I still had some distance to go, so took the opportunity to fuel up a little more at a garage selling waffles and coffee.

Whilst walking along a particularly straight piece of road leading out of Eidsvoll, I saw in the far distance somebody sat at the side of the road. As I got closer I saw it was an old man sat on a large boulder. He was obviously a local man and waved cheerfully at the motorists he recognised going past. As I past him, he asked a question of me that I didn't understand, so I explained I was from the UK. He then went on in broken English to ask me the nature of my journey, where had I come from, where was I going to? I showed him on the map where I was heading that day, but due to an eye condition he couldn't see the map. He then went on to explain that he was seeing his Dr in the morning to arrange an operation. It was a rather strange conversation. Anyway, we eventually parted with a wave and a smile, he wishing me "God tur" and me wishing him the best of luck with his Dr in the morning. 

As I then headed into a heavily wooded area, the going began to get tough again. It was all uphill, my hip was throbbing and I was starting to feel a little demoralised. Truth be known, I was feeling really quite lonely. I knew the cabin I was heading for was near to a lake, so I decided that if I got my head down and made better speed, I could maybe take a bath in the lake, either on the way to the cabin, or drop my stuff of at the cabin and rush back for a quick dip. What urged me on more than anything through the woods though were the ammount of shotguns I could hear being discharged. Grouse hunting season started on Tuesday, and they were clearly bang at it in this area, (pun intended).

Anyway, the sight I beheld when I rounded a corner before the lake made me forget completely about staying in any cabin.

Enough said! The only downside was no phone connection, so no updates or messages from home. Anyway, I took my bath, and it was COLD, but got rid of some of the grime and eased the pains I was feeling in my body. Another 34 kms in the bag today. A quick kit check showed everything working as it should be and in good repair. The boots got a quick wash in the lake as they had had everything thrown at them, cow shit, moose shit, mud, bogs, you name it. But inside my feet were still totally dry and comfy. Just wish the hip would settle down.

The pilgrims tale (2014) day 2, Wednesday 10 September

Well, what a night! The optimism and enthusiasm shown in my entry before I went to bed last night was clearly misguided. During yesterday's walk I had noticed a niggling pain in my right hip, but chose to ignore it as nothing serious. Did that decision come back to bite me on the arse!!! Throughout the night I did not manage to get more than half an hours unbroken sleep before I was woken up by an intense pain in my hip. I was popping pain killers like smarties, all to no avail, so I laid in "bed" waiting for the dawn to break. On went the porridge and I set about packing away my room for the night. Apart from the pain in my hip, it really had been a very cosy night.

I was back on the trail for 8am, and once I strapped my rucksack harness around my pelvis, the pain from my hip seemed to abate. This mornings walking was very different to yesterday. For a start it was dry, and secondly it was much more open walking. I was following cycle paths and dirt tracks, which made the going quite quick, I managed to cover 10kms in the first 2 hours.

But the the pain came back with a vengeance! Walking was sheer agony. What made it worse was that the track suddenly went off road again, and boy was it off road. The track was barely wide enough to walk down, and some of the ups and downs were so treacherous that ropes had had to be put in place. What I did notice an abundance of was elk/ moose droppings. It was everywhere, but not an animal in sight sadly.

The only consolation was it was at least dry. The journey itself was a massive roller coaster of highs and lows, possibly due to the pain killers.   When pain free I was fine, but when the pain came it was bad enough to make me curse out loud. As I was starting to feel really low, I was buoyed by the sight of a service station right next to the path. I binned my rucksack and grabbed a much needed coffee and my favorite Norwegian cake. A kokkeboller, or coconut cake. As I walked around the garage though, I noted that even without the rucksack I could now hardly walk the pain was so bad. Once again, it seemed that by tightening my rucksack when I put it back on, the pain subsided slightly, though this could have been the extra painkillers I took with my coffee.

I eventually reached the first church of the day, Ullensaker kirke;

In the guide, "The pilgrim road to Nidaros" it suggests taking a detour from the path as it continued from the church if it was misty. I didn't because, not only was it not misty, but I was in so much pain I was afraid I might just jump on a train if I went through a large town, and bin the trip. Anyhow, I stayed on the path and would advise all others to take the detour. The path was so overgrown, and narrow, a machete would have been ideal. It also follows farm paths used by cattle, so in places is EXTREMLY muddy and shitty, boot deep. I actually thought I was going to lose a boot at one point. It also involved crossing a lot of ploughed farmland, which didn't seem right.

And so, the second church of the morning was a welcome sight;

Hovin kirke. The hip was definitely slowing me down and was leaving me feeling quite depressed. Once again, I started to seriously think of ending the journey, which is not like me at all, so you can imagine the pain I was in. I decided that, at the very least, I had to see the day out and try and get a good nights sleep, as tiredness wasn't helping. A short time after leaving Hovin The trail passed Raknehaugen, the largest ancient mound in Norway.

I continued on, but was now in a bit of a quandary where to spend the night. Hovin would have been ideal, but it was only 3 in the afternoon, so still a little early to set camp. The next obvious place on the map was a pilgrim accomodation at Risebu, but that was way too far. I finally settled on taking a detour from the marked path, it basically meant going to the right of a lake instead of the left, as there was another church on that side. There might also have been a chance of hopping on a bus to get to the lodgings at Risebu. Anyway, it was all to no avail as, when I saw a nice meadow at the side of the road, I decided I couldn't physically take another step, so here I am for the night! I still managed 32kms today, but it took 11 hours. As for the hip, I'm really taking it a day at a time. My body is screaming "go home", but my head is shocking, "knuckle under and get on with it". I am only concerned I might miss the point when determination becomes stupidity. If anyone has any words of advice, please do drop me a line

The pilgrims tale (2014) day 1 Tuesday 9th September

And so it begins. I travelled to Norway from North Wales yesterday via Liverpool, Ryanair, Torp airport and then bus to Oslo. I have to say that Ryanair really does seem to be trying to listen to the passengers and has improved things no end. At the end of the day, if you book a ticket with them, you know you are booking with a budget airline! I can't understand then why people insist on moaning about their flights. It is what it is, if you want better, pay more, easy.

I was met by family friends at the central bus station in Oslo and went home with them to enjoy a delicious chicken meal, and maybe one too many beers in view of what was to commence today! This was followed by a quick trip around the corner to visit the in-laws, and consume yet another beer, before then getting an early night. 

The pilgrim centre in Oslo is closed this week, so I knew I would not be able to get a pilgrims passport there. Instead, I visited the Diocese of Oslo offices, also home to the bishop,of Oslo.

I had managed to get a lift into the icy centre at 8.15, so figured I would have to hang around until the offices opened at 9. Not an attractive proposal this morning as the rain was of biblical proportions. Happily, the office was already open and I was welcomed inside by some extremely friendly people. I explained what I wanted and was given the necessary paperwork, before being invited to join the staff at the offices for their morning prayer. I'm not normally a religious person, but thought that as this is after all a spiritual journey, then that might be nice. I was led into what I can only describe as a basement chapel which I was told, dated back to the 1200's. It was a very cosy room and was amply filled by the eight go us in there. I was given the order of service in Norwegian to follow, and in honour of my presence, the hymn book was scrutinised for a tune which included English lyrics. "Amazing Grace" was duly selected and I eagerly joined in. The service was concluded with my forthcoming journey, and myself, AND my family back home, all being blessed. It was really quite lovely.

From there it was off to the medieval ruins on the Oslo waterfront to begin my journey.

The first marker at the start of the path

643kms, I still can't really get my head around what I am undertaking. Navigating out of the city of Oslo was always going to be slow going due to the road system, but added to that was the torrential rain that made following the map obtained from the bishops office almost impossible, even though it was in a waterproof map case. I just couldn't see it. Additionally, the markers for the path are quite small, sparse and easy to miss. Thus I was thankful I had uploaded the route as best I could to my GPS. Even so, I still made a couple of wrong turns, though it was all okay in the end. I took a small breather to watch Oslo's finest clearly carrying out some weapons drills and house entries at the rear of a large police station I passed.

Although I had meticulously planned my route, I obviously had not paid enough attention to where the path took me. After stopping in a sport shop to get some camping gas, I was surprised to find they didn't stock any, but I was helpfully informed that if I crossed the road there was a large shopping centre with an XXL store inside. I followed the directions to find it was the very XXL store I normally shop in when in Oslo. Anyway, I got the last bit of kit I needed and off I went. One thing that has really been worrying me is the weight of my rucksack when packed, 20kg. And that is without fluid. I'm sure any experienced distance hikers will be horrified at this, but I couldn't see how I could make it lighter. Carrying iPad and emergency battery packs doesn't help, but if I didn't I couldn't blog, and this is one thing I really wanted to do during the trip. I was a little reassured that the friendly Dag at Cotswold Outdoor had carried a similarly heavy pack when touring Norway, and he is a lot smaller than me. Even so, it's heavy! The Osprey rucksack itself though is behaving wonderfully. The hip belt is taking all the strain and it is feeling really comfortable to walk in. Tha Salomon boots are just awesome, like a pair of waterproof slippers!

Due to the continuing rain, when I started travelling along a network of forest paths, the going became very difficult. For much of the distance the paths were bare rock and consequently very slippy. With the weight of the rucksack adding to the situation, I nearly took a tumble on several occasions. 

In the woods, there was the same problem with the markers, which seem to be quite sparingly placed, certainly nowhere near as regular as the DNT markers I am used to following. A spurious GPS reading caused some confusion, and I wasted time taking a wrong turn and then retracing my steps, but all was good in the end.

Whilst following this section of the trail, it intersects with the "old kings road" which appears as a sunken road through the forest. 

Whilst on this section of the walk another problem was highlighted, re-hydrating! I seemed to be gulping down water like there was no tomorrow and although I have a 2 litre hydration bladder and 2 750ml bottles, it doesn't seem like enough, and there was sparse opportunity to refill them. I was eventually able to refill them at Skedsmo church where I found a wedding rehearsal in progress, or should I say coming to an end.

I didn't suddenly become a wedding crasher! By this time I was starting to feel a little tired. The feet were holding out great in my expertly fitted boots, (thanks James), my back was good, even with the weight. I was just tired. Then I realised I was lugging along with me a pair of walking poles. This was something I had thought long and hard about. Were they really necessary? I finally decided that, as they were a cheap and cheerful set from Lidl, if I found them of no use I would just dispose of them. Anyway, I decided to give them a go, and found I had a new lease of life, off I went.

Although the rain had now stopped, it was promising more, so around 6 o'clock I started thinking of a place to stop. I was aware of a farm house offering accomodation to pilgrims, but that was starting to look like to far to travel. In another pilgrims account of his walk, I remembered him saying that church grounds were ideal to camp in as they were quiet and always had a source of water. This being said, I noted on the map that I was approaching a church at Frogner, so decided to suss it out. And it was everything it was supposed to be, a nice, well kept lawn perfect to pitch a tent and an outdoor water supply. Up went the tent, and on went the stove. 

The last piece of kit to trial, the Primus Eta spider. Once again, I wasn't disappointed. It boiled the water fast and I ate my super noodles out of the included plastic bowl, feeling refreshed and re-fuelled. One thing I wasn't looking forward to was packing a wet tent in the morning as it was clearly going to rain again overnight. On exploring the grounds of the rather large church though, I found a very clean outdoor toilet of Tardis like proportions with a heater and running water. Sorted. Down went the tent and everything moved into the toilet, which I couldn't see anyone using at 8 at night.

An en suite, kitchette and drying rack. The final tally for today? I had set myself a target of 30kms and I managed 35, so I'm happy but tired. On the plus side, no blisters or injuries, though Imwill,have to see how I feel in the morning.

Now for an early night. Nos da.